Archive for the 'Climbing' Category

Winter Ice Climbing

Just posting up a few pictures of some recent days on ice. Last week I went up to Hidden Falls in RMNP with some friends and tried to play nice with the other ice climbers all waiting to get on a bit of frozen water. The ice was nice, the weather was a bit chilly, though. An easy approach in a good setting with a nice meal afterwards always makes for a great day. This afternoon I headed out to Clear Creek Canyon in Golden to lead a few ice routes with a friend. Temps were much nicer, we had the place mostly to ourselves although the ice was a bit brittle. Too bad my camera ran out of batteries after the first picture!

Hiking In Hidden Falls Topping Out Hidden Falls Double Team Full House Clear Creek Ice


Winter has finally arrived here in Colorado. There have been a few storms on the Front Range but the majority of the snow has been in the high peaks and the San Juan mountains. Samuel and I did get to go to Copper last Friday to ski, most of the snow was man-made but the conditions were decent enough. On Thanksgiving day we took the boys up to Chautauqua Park in Boulder to go hiking in the snow. Yesterday I went with a group up to Rocky Mountain National Park to go ice climbing, we hiked in to Loch Vale Gorge, climbed a few ice routes and attempted a mixed line that ended up being pretty hard (M7+). The freezing temperatures had us retreating to Ed’s Cantina in Estes Park fairly quickly, but it was great to get out and climb some early season ice!

The Third First And Second Flatiron The Flatirons Mo' Flo' Than Go Free Strike Zone Free Strike Zone Mo' Flo' Than Go

Sandstone, Gneiss and Granite

The past few weeks I’ve been trying to get out climbing in Eldo or Boulder Canyon since the weather has been nice. Most days are t-shirt weather but when the sun goes down or the wind picks up, you’d better have another layer! My tick list on Mountain Project is getting bigger and my todos are slowly shrinking, although I seem to keep adding more climbs to do as I explore the area more. I can tell the end of the season is coming soon because the days are definitely getting shorter, and I can only get two or three pitches in after work. The good news is that ice season is quickly approaching!

Your Basic Lieback Dihedral Deugan Belays On the Wall

Second Pitch Washington Irving Tigger Tigger

The Flying Dutchman

Jason Deugan and I climbed a snow route on Longs Peak yesterday, it’s called The Flying Dutchman and it is a 1,600 foot couloir that begins at Chasm Lake and ends at the Loft, a football-field sized saddle between Longs and Mount Meeker. We started around 2am from the trailhead and hiked about 4 miles to Chasm Lake, in the Longs/Meeker cirque. We climbed the snow sections unroped, opting to rope up for the crux of the climb: a 40 foot section of ice. A short way after the ice crux we were able to remove our crampons and climb up to the Loft on loose rock. From the Loft we hiked around to the back side of Longs and took the Clark’s Arrow route up and around to the Homestretch on the Keyhole route. A short distance and we were on the summit of Longs. We met the three RMNP climbing rangers at the summit who had just climbed Kiener’s Route and then began our descent via the Keyhole. The Keyhole route descends 4,845 feet over a distance of about 8 miles, so we were pretty busted by the time we got back to the car at 7pm. This was my first fourteener and I was pumped to be able to do it via a technical route.

The Diamond The Flying Dutchman Chasm Lake The Flying Dutchman Ice Pitch Clark's Arrow Longs Peak Summit Marmot

Update: Jason Deugan sent me a few pictures he took of our climb.

The Flying Dutchman The Flying Dutchman The Flying Dutchman

Mountain Project

One of the great things about the web is it’s ability to bring together people of similar interests. You can find forums on any hobby or topic that you wish, especially if information is critical to the hobby. Climbing is one of my favorite diversions, and one of the reasons that led me to move to Colorado. Luckily, there is a great web resource on climbing in Colorado and around the country, Mountain Project. It is an online database of climbing routes, photos and comments that are user-submitted and maintained. Each user has a page where they can list the climbs they have done, rate them and keep track of their submissions to the site. Something that makes Mountain Project stand out from other online climbing sites is the active development on the site, new features and content are constantly being added and improvements made. You can view my page on Mountain Project here.

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