Archive for June, 2010


Eldo Blitz

The past few months I’ve been trying to tick off as many Eldorado Canyon climbs as I can off my todo list, especially ones that are close to my climbing grade limit.  There is a lifetime of climbing near Boulder and it seemed like I was repeating routes that I had done before.  My friend Jonny has been instrumental in helping me tick off most of these climbs, always ready to charge up something on the weekend or after work.  Having a psyched partner always helps!

Buckets on Alice Alice in Bucketland Hair City

The above photos are of Jonny on Alice in Bucketland and Hair City.  We linked up Rosy Crucifixion to Alice early one Saturday morning while the canyon was virtually empty of climbers.  It was a bit surreal to be climbing all alone on the popular Redgarden Wall, but we descended into familiar territory after we rappelled back down into the growing crowds.

Northcutt Start Break on Through Positively Fourth Street

Jonny again on Northcutt Start and pitch 1 of Break on Through and Jeff on the super-cool route Positively Fourth Street.  I lead the second pitch of Break on Through and puzzled for a few minutes at the crux before finally just trying the moves and pulling through it.  I think it is physically impossible to do this climb without singing the Doors song.  I apologize to anyone who was in the general vicinity while I was topping out.

Mesca-Line Long John Wall White Lightning

Matt on Mesca-Line, Fabio on the third pitch of Long John Wall and Scott climbing White Lightning.  Mesca-Line has to be one of my favorite 5.7s in the canyon because you can climb the whole route with just a rack of nuts.  Long John Wall has to be the best 5.8 route in the whole canyon, a must do if you are in the area and a great mid-winter climb because of the southwest aspect.

Xanadu Purple Haze Chockstone

Jonny again on Xanadu, Scott on Purple Haze and me on Chockstone.  Xanadu was an awesome climb although a bit runout at the start.  Chockstone is a great intro to 5.10 in Eldo since the crux section is pretty short and fairly well protected if you have a decent reach.  The crux move is protected by a good nut overhead and the difficulties subside when it is around your knees (as seen below).

Reach For It Verschneidung

Finishing Up Winter

April and May saw the end of our winter here in Colorado, but before it left I had to get out and take advantage of the remaining ice and snow.  Monika and I had the opportunity to get out for a Saturday and head up to Lincoln Falls for her first time ice climbing.  We ended up climbing three pitches of ice and topped out on a mild spring day with a few flurries and nearby wet slide avalanches on steeper aspects!  It was a superb end of the ice season and I think Monika is hooked.

Belay Duty

Lincoln Falls Topping Out First Ice

The end of the ice season typically signifies the start of the couloir season.  The temperatures had been very mild while still freezing at night when Micah and I set out to climb Dragon’s Tail Couloir in Rocky Mountain National Park.  The climb was a nice and easy slog, punctuated by a few reminders to start out earlier next time.  Back at the car at 10am, we finished up the day by having breakfast in Estes Park and then doing some rock climbing at Lumpy Ridge.  You can’t beat climbing snow in the morning and finishing up the day in a t-shirt!

Dragon's Tail Couloir Western .45 Dragon's Tail Midway Dragon's Tail Exit Dragon's Tail Exit